Follow The Telegraph fashion team live from the first London Collections: Men shows. Today: Sherlock Holmes on the cawalk, Prince Charles' style secrets, Martin Kemp catwalks on a bar and more...
BY Belinda White | 15 June 2012
LIVE STREAMING TODAY:
10:00 Lou Dalton 12:00 Topman Design 14:00 Martine Rose
18:00 Xander Zhou
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FRIDAY JUNE 15
15:25 HUNKS IN TRUNKS A-GO-GO AT ORLEBAR BROWN
Providing the dishiest model of the day so far, men's swimwear brand Orlebar Brown hosted a presentation in their swanky new store just of Regent Street. Season after season the label provides chic trucks - as favoured by James Bond - which sit somewhere in between budgie-smugglers and board shorts. The new collection saw wicker prints in various colour ways and geometrics courtesy of the David Hicks archives. Continuing to see a rise in sales of the shorter swimming trunks, the label is hoping to banish badly dressed Brits from beaches worldwide. This season Orlebar Brown is pursuing a natural progression into sportswear, with natty shorts that fold away into the smallest of bags, sweatshirts in every colour under the sun and all-weather kagools. Unfortunately during Team Telegraph's appointment, the eye-catching model had donned pieces from the sportswear collection. Orlebar Brown, next time please may we have more hunks in trunks? - Sophie Warburton, stylist coordinator, The Daily Telegraph.
15:20 WE SPY A LOVELY NECK TIE
By Labour & Wait if you must know. 10 style points.
15:10 IN THE MOOD FOR ABBOUD
Citing London as the best fashion city for men, Bernardo Rojo, the creative director of American brand, Joseph Abboud very much felt like he was coming home. 'I took my first design job in London' explained Rojo but although presenting here he stayed true to the US based brand's roots. Hosting a salon-style show in the Bar Américain, Abboud presented a collection of slick sportswear in a colour palette of red, white and blue (with a little black thrown in for good measure). Post-show, the designer referenced pretty much every man's idol, James Dean, along with a modern twist courtesy of Ryan Gosling's character in 'Drive'. Models strutted in the runway in polonecks, styled under fitted blazers and shorts, while others wore macs with nipped in waists and slim cut chinos. With a nod to both the 1950's and the 80's the collection covered all bases for the modern man - wearable pieces, in innovative fabrics that can be styled up or down accordingly. Sleek and chic, even the snappiest of dressers could learn a thing or two from Abboud. - Sophie Warburton, stylist coordinator, The Daily Telegraph.
14:50 MIX IT LIKE MARTINE ROSE
Mix three parts bleached denim (oversized, Dexy's Midnight Runners proportions) with one part fake snakeskin, and one part scuba-style neoprene. Scatter in some handprint motifs, get your models to hold old band T-shirts (Pil, Screamadelica). Then top the whole thing with white, bankrobber-style facemasks. Finally bottom it with practical Velcro-strapped action-sandals of a type hitherto seen on any catwalk. Martine Rose was loopy and very niche - but fun. - Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor, The Daily Telegraph.
PHOTOS: Phillip Hollis
14:40 FIX UP, LOOK SHARP
While you're waiting for the next show to drop, take a look at London editor, John O'Ceallaigh's guide to the emerging stars of Savile Row.
14:15 GOR-BLIMEY!
Backstage at rehearsals for Oliver Spencer show and catch Gordon Richardson, design director at Topman, with his trousers round his ankles, revealing striped jersey trunk knickers. The reason? He begged Oliver for a cameo on the catwalk. This is a picture of him preparing (with trousers on)... - Gareth Wyn Davies, Stella Magazine.
13:40 TOPMAN'S ARTY SPORTY SHOW
When the American graffiti cum neo Expressionist artist Jean-Michel Basquiat is mentioned in the pre-show blurb you have a pretty good idea what to expect. And so Topman Design presented a collection which was heavy on painterly prints which ranged from refined brush strokes, to those of the 'dab and splodge' variety.
Fuchsia, orange, red and various fluoro shades were the mainstay of a collection that included such delights as a Prince of Wales check shorts jumpsuit, and a section of Amercian football aertex crop tops. One genuine highlight was a series of lightweight tailored jackets that had been heavily lasercut. When worn with an underlayer of a different colour, it created a striking polka dot effect through the surface of the jacket. This was by no means a collection designed for an Everyman - the shapes (much of them oversized) were just as challenging as the prints and palette, but Topman Design's core clientele of urban street style youff fashionistas will not be disappointed.- David Nicholls, Design Editor, The Telegrpah Magazine.
PHOTOS: Chris Pledger
13:30 TINIE PROBLEM
13:00 ANOTHER GREEN BEAN HITS THE SCENE
Sir Philip Green and his daughter Chloe we hear from quite regularly, but today the lesser spotted Green - Brandon - put in an appearance at the Topman Design show. Our first question - naturally - was what is he wearing: head-to-toe Topman? "All Topman. Except for the jacket, it's Neil Barrett. I was told to wear Topman but I couldn't find it this morning when I was rumagging." Apparently Brandon rolled out of bed "four minutes" before the Green limo was due to depart. So, as he can put together a look like that in four minutes, does Brandon plan to do a Chloe and design his own line?
"Personally I have no intention of designing. I stick with my dad, I started working with him about a year ago [in the business side of Arcadia]. But obviously as dad says product is the key part of any business, and in fashion, no matter how good you are at the business part you have to be involved in the product too. Topman I think is performing as well as any brand in the high street. Globally across the world Topman is the business in the Arcadia group which is performing hands-down, the best..".
And does he ever get his dad to try and different look? "No - I wouldn't even try!" - Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor, The Daily Telegraph.
12:45 WAKE UP CALL
12:30 POCKET ROCKETS
It's all about a pocket square at the moment don't you know? Check out these dapper dan's rocking the shows today. I say!
12:00 COOL MAN LUKE
Luke Day the Editor of GQ Style - and a stylist of some renown - has fully mastered the fashion Rock God look. For those who want to "Steal His Style" Luke's wearing a James Long shirt, various chains (Gucci, Jade Jagger, and a "God" medallion he bought in the church of Browns), plus some Topman Design jeans. Shows at the top of Luke's list are James Long and Martine Rose, plus MAN. He said: "we should all appreciate that without Topman there wouldn't be a London mens' fashion week at all." That suntan he added, not fake: he's just back from holiday. - Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor, The Daily Telegraph.
11:50 HACKETT GET INTO GREAT GATSBY MODE
PHOTOS: Phillip Hollis
Hackett harked back to a lost, glorious, halcyon age this morning - the time when bankers wore bowlers, carried brollies, and could be trusted. An 18-strong phalanx of models carrying the traditional City accessories and wearing dapper double and single breasted suits - some a bit too loud to be convincingly vintager banker - closed the label's show at the Royal Opera House. Elsewhere, there was a noble and determined push for paisley-printed trousers - a big womenswear trend - to translate into menswear. But I'm not sure about it will succeed. Spanish-owned Hackett usually riffs on Englishness but much of today's collection - the seersucker jackets, baker boy caps, cream lined peaked lapel suits and white brogues - had something a little Great Gatsby-ish about them. - Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor, The Daily Telegraph.
The finale of city gents at Hackett. PJHOTO: Phillip Hollis
11:40 SOMETHING FOR THE LADIES
You know when a model's really big, because they sit front row instead of pounding the catwalk: David Gandy front row at Hackett.
PHOTO: mrporterlive / Instagram
11:06 SPENCER SOULBOY
Spencer Hart is a show to watch out for this afternoon - Benedict Cumberbatch and womenswear are set for catwalk cameos. Nick Hart said last night his collection this time round is going to be heavily music-influenced, then started reminiscing about competing in Soulboy dance-offs at a nightclub called Crackers. "I was a terrible dancer, though." - Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor, The Daily Telegraph.
10:55 LOU DALTON
For spring/summer 2013 Lou Dalton has shifted her focus from the battle fields of WW1 to the playing fields of a very modern age. It was more 'sport luxe' than sportswear however, with a major focus on combining discordant fabrics. Panels of suede were added to cotton shirts. Velvet and jersey are combined on sweat tops. Airtex panels added a pleasing texture to sharply tailored jackets. Tailoring in general was very strong - and heavily structured thanks to a generous use of panelling. Alexa Chung arrived with British Fashion Council chairman Harold Tilman giving us the first front row pap frenzy of London Collections: Men; while swimmer Mark Foster and Frankie Goes to Hollywood singer Hollie Johnson were also in attendance. - David Nicholls, Design Editor, The Telegrpah Magazine.
PHOTOS: Chris Pledger
10:45 Is Liam Gallagher the new Paul Smith? The Oasis... sorry, Beady Eye singer's Beatles/Mod influence brand, Pretty Green, is to open a standalone store in Tokyo next month. He's already got 11 shops in Britain. - Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor, The Daily Telegraph.
10:30 BREAKFAST WITH STEPHEN WEBSTER
Stephen Webster kicked off the inaugural London Collections: Men shows with a busy-for-9-in-morning breakfast at Hix for his new mens jewellery collection. Called 'Highwayman', it was inspired by his yearly cross-America roadtrips (in his wheels of choice, a rather cool vintage Thunderbird). Hence, necklaces and bracelets centred on roadsigns and rings came as "rotating wheels". A chirpy Webster told Team Telegraph that he was planning on doing another sojourn from Colorado to the Napa Valley this year - "It's the only time I can get away from my family!". His road buddy of choice? "My mechanic!" Sensible man.
Mmmmmmushroom's with creme fraiche at Stephen Webster.
The Red Snapper cocktails (gin and tomato juice and fancy fry-ups served were top notch, but Webster had another trick up his sleeve. Taking to the bar-cum-catwalk, he annouced there was going to be a show. What he didnt tell us was that Martin Kemp, Gary Kemp and Nicky Clarke would be among the models. They goodnaturedly did their best Zoolanders and everyone cheered - although Kemp got rather bashful when we asked for a picture of his best Blue Steel. Clarke and Webster had no such reservations, though - check out their pouts. Early contenders for best BS of the week? - Phong Luu, Fashion Features Co-ordinator, The Daily Telegraph
Stephen Webster and Nicky Clarke pull their best Blue Steels for our camera.
Nicky Clarke, Stephen Webster, Martin Kemp and Gary Kemp strut their stuff. PHOTO: Phillip Hollis
10:00 ALEXA ARRIVES
No London fashion event would be complete without the British Fashion Council's Young Style ambassador, Miss Alexa Chung...
9:50 AND WE"RE OFF!
The first London Collections: Men kicks off proper this morning with... a breakfast. Why is it men can't do anything on an empty stomach? Jeweller Stephen Webster is playing host - more of this later. While we're waiting for the first show to begin (Lou Dalton 10am live streamed above), news has reached our inbox of the first bit of celebrity catwalk action. Sherlock Holmes AKA benedict Cumberbatch, will 'walk' in Spencer Hart's show today at 5pm. Spencer Hart dressed Benedict Cumberbatch for the BAFTA TV awards and the Golden Globes this year. If you're in Benedict's fan club - affectionately known as 'The Cumberbitches', get thee to the Old Selfridges Hotel where you might catch a glimpse of the man himself. Just don't tell him i sent you...
THURSDAY JUNE 14
PRINCE CHARLES: FASHION ICON? ME?
At a reception at St James Palace to officially launch London Collections: Men, Prince Charles batted off suggestions he was a sartorial icon. Luke Leitch went along to meet His Royal Highness and ask the all important question: what are you wearing? Read all about his adventures here...
Prince Charles takes the mic. PHOTO: REX
And here are our favourite pics from the glamorous soiree:
David Walliams meets Charles: "I asked Charles what he wears. He said mostly Primark, but George at Asda too: he likes to mix it up." PHOTO: REX
Tom Ford meets Prince Charles: Who's your tailor? Call me, not that guy next to me... don't call him... don't even look at him... PHOTO: REX
Source: fashion.telegraph.co.uk
London 2012: Tim Brabants 'back to his old self' after injury - BBC News
Tim Brabants can successfully defend his Olympic title at London 2012 despite a "career-threatening" injury, according to Britain's canoeing chief.
Brabants, 35, won gold in the K1 1000m sprint canoe event at Beijing 2008 but had major shoulder surgery last year.
He was named to Team GB for his fourth consecutive Olympics on Thursday having won a selection battle for his place.
Analysis: GB medal hopes
Tim Brabants is coming into form at the right time after his injury but look to the men's 200m sprint distances for Britain's best hopes of gold.
Ed McKeever won the 2010 world title in the K1 200m class, adding silver in 2011, while Liam Heath and Jon Schofield also won silver in the two-man K2 event that year alongside the European title. The trio should earn Britain two medals at the Games.
GB's women's K4 boat finished fourth at the 2011 World Championships. The four-woman event is seen as the priority over individual races for Rachel Cawthorn and Jess Walker and the ever-improving crew are capable of a medal.
In the men's C1 races, talent ID success Rich Jefferies will be aiming to reach the finals and is considered a hotter prospect for Rio 2016.
Performance director John Anderson said Brabants "looked like he was back to his old self" in the deciding race.
Brabants outclassed rival Paul Wycherley at the World Cup in Duisburg, Germany - the third and final selection race for the British Olympic team - to claim the one spot available to a Briton in the men's K1 1000m at London 2012.
"A career-threatening injury two years ago really put him behind where he wanted to be," Anderson told BBC Sport.
"We're talking a serious injury. Last year was difficult for Tim with his rehab and he basically didn't have enough time to get back.
"I think it's the measure of an Olympic champion to come through that adversity and deliver the performances. Tim's aspiration is to go out and defend his Olympic title. On his day, he's capable of challenging the podium in London."
Wycherley, 26, went to the 2011 World Championships instead of a struggling Brabants after beating the latter in a one-off selection race last summer.
Speaking as his place on the GB team for the Olympics was announced, Brabants said: "[For the past year] I've been fighting off the back foot more than in previous years, because of the shoulder surgery I had. Now we're back where we want to be.
"Four years later, it doesn't get any easier. We know what we did to achieve what we did in Beijing - the training, the work and the mental preparation - now it's following a similar pattern but it's harder, because I'll need to go faster to win in London."
Reigning world champion Adam van Koeverden of Canada, Norway's Eirik Veraas Larsen and Australia's Ken Wallace are among the candidates looking to challenge Brabants this summer.
Source: www.bbc.co.uk
London stocks edge higher on policy action - Financial Times
Last updated: June 15, 2012 3:09 pm
Source: www.ft.com
'Light at end of the tunnel' for Lidl plans for Bath - bath.co.uk
Plans for a new Lidl supermarket on the old Herman Miller site in Bath seem to be slowly moving closer to reality.
Councillor Tim Ball (Lib Dem, Twerton) has been telling his constituents that everyone involved is almost ready to sign the necessary legal papers.
He said: "There at last seems to be light at the end of the tunnel on this long running saga as all parties now seem to be ready to sign the legal agreements that will allow Lidl on the Lower Bristol Road to become a reality.
"We again keep our fingers crossed as we have been very close to this position before."
It had been hoped that work on the site would have started by now, but the planning process is made complicated by the fact Bath and North East Somerset Council wants a section of the land to build a bus lane in the future.
The local authority is ready to grant planning permission to Lidl and its development partner Acornford, which owns half the building and land, but needs to pin down the conditions of a section 106 agreement.
A B&NES spokesman said it was hoped that there would be movement over the next few weeks.
He said: "The council is doing all it can to progress the Lidl planning application alongside all of those with an interest in the land.
"However, the application can only move forwards once the other freeholder of the site has agreed to sign the Section 106 Agreement. They have yet to do so.
"We anticipate further discussions between all interested parties over the coming weeks."
A spokeswoman for Lidl said the company was continuing to work with B&NES and Acornford to put together acceptable proposals.
The progression of Lidl and Sainsbury's developments in the city come at a time when Tesco has resubmitted its plans to open a store on the former Bath Press site, in Lower Bristol Road.
Two previous applications were withdrawn after concerns by planners over traffic and the impact on shops in nearby Moorland Road.
Source: www.thisisbath.co.uk
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